Things to do in Fort Kochi when it rains

Rain in Kerala is not an occasional inconvenience. The south-west monsoon arrives around the beginning of June and soaks the coast until September, and the north-east monsoon brings further showers in October and November. Even in the dry season, the odd afternoon storm is possible.

The good news is that Kerala rain tends to come in bursts, with dry spells between, and that Fort Kochi has plenty to do under a roof. Local people will also tell you, a little defensively, that the town is at its most beautiful in the rain.

Indoor sights

Mattancherry Palace

The Dutch Palace, as it is also known, is modest from the outside and remarkable inside, for its Kerala murals of scenes from the Ramayana and other Hindu stories. It is one of the best rainy-day sights in Kerala. Generally open 10 am to 5 pm, closed on Fridays.

The Paradesi Synagogue

Built in 1568, with hand-painted Chinese floor tiles and Belgian glass chandeliers. It is small, so a visit takes half an hour. Generally open 10 am to noon and 2 to 5 pm, closed on Fridays, Saturdays and Jewish holidays. Dress modestly.

The Indo-Portuguese Museum

A small museum in the grounds of the Bishop’s House, with church art, vestments and silverwork from the Portuguese period in Kochi. Quiet, dry and inexpensive. Generally open 10 am to 5 pm, closed on Mondays.

Churches

St. Francis Church, where Vasco da Gama was first buried, and the ornate Santa Cruz Basilica are both good places to shelter and look around. They are working churches, so be quiet during services.

The spice warehouses of Jew Town

The old godowns along the lanes to the Synagogue still trade in pepper, ginger, cardamom and turmeric, and several are open to browse. Covered, fragrant and full of history: the spice trade is why this coast was fought over for centuries.

Slow pleasures

• An art café. Fort Kochi’s cafés, some long-running, like Kashi Art Café, are made for sitting out a downpour with a book, a coffee and something from the cake counter.
• Galleries. The town’s contemporary art scene, a legacy of the Kochi-Muziris Biennale, means there is usually something to see under a roof.
• A cooking class. Several homestays and small kitchens offer Kerala cooking classes, usually a small group, a few hours and a meal at the end. Ask your host.
• An Ayurvedic massage. The monsoon is traditionally the season for Ayurvedic treatment in Kerala, when the air is cool and the body is thought to be most receptive. Our guide to Ayurveda and yoga in Kerala explains how the two fit together.
• Bookshops and antique shops in Jew Town and around Princess Street.

Evenings: Kathakali and Kalaripayattu

Rain or not, the evening performances go on under a roof. A Kathakali show typically begins with the make-up around 5 pm and the performance around 6. Arrive early for the make-up; it is half the experience. Our Kathakali guide explains what you are watching. Kalaripayattu, Kerala’s martial art, is often performed at the same centres.

A yoga class in the rain

Our classes run every day, rain or shine, in a garden pavilion in Chirattapalam. Practising to the sound of rain on the roof, in cool, green air, is one of the particular pleasures of Kerala.

• Morning class, 7:30–9:30 am. Some mornings it is held at Secret Garden, an open garden nearby, from 8:00. In heavy rain, plans can change, so message us the evening before.
• Afternoon class, 3:30–5:30 pm. Just come to the school. A good way to fill the wettest part of the day.

Bring a towel for the walk over and a dry top to change into. Mats are provided.

A rainy-day plan

On a Friday, when Mattancherry is closed, swap it for the churches, the Museum and an afternoon class.

Practical tips for the rain

• Carry an umbrella; they are sold everywhere. A light rain jacket is too hot for most people.
• Wear sandals rather than trainers. Streets flood briefly in heavy rain and dry quickly.
• Keep electronics in a dry bag.
• Take autos between sights in a downpour; they have side flaps for the rain.
• Watch for slippery tiles at the entrances of old buildings.

Visiting in the wet season on purpose? Yoga in the Kerala monsoon explains why June to August is a quietly excellent time to practise here.

Common questions

What can you do in Fort Kochi when it rains?

Visit Mattancherry Palace and its murals, the Paradesi Synagogue, the Indo-Portuguese Museum, the churches and the spice warehouses of Jew Town; spend time in an art café or a cooking class; have an Ayurvedic massage; and see a Kathakali show in the evening.

When is the rainy season in Fort Kochi?

The main south-west monsoon runs from about June to September. The north-east monsoon brings further showers in October and November. December to March is mostly dry.

Do yoga classes in Fort Kochi run in the rain?

At Santhi School of Yoga, yes. Classes run every day, rain or shine, at 7:30 am and 3:30 pm. Message the school the evening before a morning class, as plans can change in heavy rain.

Is Mattancherry Palace open on Fridays?

No. Mattancherry Palace is closed on Fridays. The Paradesi Synagogue is closed on Fridays and Saturdays, and the Indo-Portuguese Museum on Mondays.

Is Fort Kochi worth visiting in the monsoon?

Yes, for many people. The town is green, quiet and cheaper, rain tends to come in bursts, and there is plenty to do indoors. It is also the traditional season for Ayurvedic treatment.